Gutters and downspouts are installed to properly carry and divert rainwater away from the foundation and surroundings of the house, in turn, helping to maintain the safety of its construction.
Gutters also prevent soil erosion. These even control the damage to siding, and prevent basement leaks. With a little bit of work effort and the right kind of tools, you can install gutters without hiring a contractor.
Let’s start the journey of understanding the technique.
Things to do while installing Gutters for the house
- Measuring Roof and Purchasing Materials
- Attaching Downspout Outlet and Caps
- Mounting Gutters
Measuring Roof and Purchasing Materials
Measure the dimensions of the roof that you are going to work on. Rain gutters must be attached to the front portion called fascia. so they must run along the entire length of the roof till a downspout. Use a measuring tape and get the exact length of the gutter. If the gutter run more than 40 feet (12.2 m), You must pitch down from the middle. The slant must start from the middle and go towards the downspout at each end and if it is shorter, it will slope down to either side into a single downspout.
Get a ladder and place yourself on the top of the roof. Be cautious. You must not lean without support. Do not place a ladder on uneven ground, or wear shoes without adequate traction.
Mark the starting point of the gutter run 1.25 inches (3.2 cm) below the eaves flashing which are the sheet metal pieces at the edge of the roof to protect the exterior of the building.
Measure the end-point of the gutter with downward slope. Get the chalk line to determine and mark the highest point of the gutter run. Mark a line with chalk on the fascia every 10 feet (3.0 m) and moving down 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) for every point.
Install gutters 1–1 1⁄2 the end point so that they can drain water from overhanging shingles.
Draw a chalk line from the start till the end of the gutter run. Navigating through the endpoints and holding a nail over each, firmly nail it with a hammer. Hook chalk line to the nail at the start of the gutter run, start dragging the string to the end point and again nail it at the end point.
Pulling straight up from the middle, snap the string.
Mark the location of each rafter tail at the chalk line. Rafter tails are generally spaced 16 inches (41 cm) on center and are located by nail heads. Mark each point using a piece of chalk. You may use different color chalks to distinguish them from gutter line.
Attaching Downspout Outlet and Caps
Mark the downspout outlet. Measure from the edge of the house to the center of the downspout location. Measure the gutter and mark the center of the outlet on the bottom side of the gutter with a marker. Using a chisel and hammer, create a V-shaped start hole. Make an angle of 45-degrees with a chisel from the gutter to hit the end with a hammer, firmly.
You may place the gutter in a face down position on 2 scraps of wood for support to chisel a starter hole.
Remove the outlet hole. If you are cutting clockwise choose green snips and red tin snips for cutting anti-clockwise whichever you are most comfortable with. Ensure cutting 1⁄16 inch (0.16 cm) outside of the outlet line.
Attach outlet to the hole and do the waterproofing with silicone glue. Place the outlet into the hole. Using electric drill, make 2 1⁄8 inch (0.32 cm) holes for the rivets and insert the outlet into the opening and fasten the rivets through the holes.
Connect the end cap(s) to the gutter using silicone sealant and screws. Hold the cap in place and insert a single sheet-metal screw into its hole. While temporarily holding the cap in place, drill another 1⁄8 inch (0.32 cm) diameter hole to join a pop rivet into it. Now, remove the temporary screw and attach a rivet into the same location. Apply a bead of silicone glue along the seam to waterproof it after connecting the cap with rivets.
Mounting the Gutters
Cut the gutters to size with a hacksaw and heavy-duty tin snips. Mark the point to be cut on the gutters with an erasable marker. Hold the handle with your dominant hand and keep your index finger parallel to the top, pointing toward the cutting direction for support. Use the other hand to hold the frame at the top by the wingnut. Move the saw back and forth, using your dominant hand to move forward and backward and your non-dominant hand to apply downward pressure.
Always cut gutter on a flat surface. Using heavy-duty wire snips for cutting smaller ones. Cut the appropriate angle of 45 degrees for gutters that run corners.
Attach the gutter’s fascia brackets to the rafter tails. Drill a 1⁄8 inch (0.32 cm) pilot hole through the fascia down to rafter tails. Attach the fascia brackets to using 1⁄4 inch (0.64 cm) stainless steel lag screws. You may apply soap for making it easier for penetrating the fascia.
Review manufacturer’s recommendations for type of gutter.
Mount the gutters to the fascia brackets and attach it to the rafter tails. Rotate the gutter upward until the edge closest to the fascia fastens hook on the back of the bracket.
Secure the gutters to the fascia brackets using machine screws. Using an electric drill make a 3⁄16 inch (0.48 cm) diameter hole into the front side of the gutter to insert stainless steel machine screw through the hole. finish it by capping it with a flanged nut and secure it to the bracket.
Attach downspout to gutters via downspout outlet. Screw the downspout into the gutter outlet that extends downward from the gutter. Ensure tapered end of the downspout faces the right direction for drainage. Afterward, apply a silicon glue to the connection seams between the downspout and let them rest overnight to dry.
Spray paint your brackets and gutters. Avoid aiming the tapered end in the sidewalks, hose bibs, and electric meters.
Join PVC pipe to the downspout and divert rainwater into the ground or a manhole if you need to get it drain away from the residential area.